_{OPERA PLACES} Olivier Bergeron takes us to Spain and France

City where you’re working?
I’m currently enjoying a few days off at home in Paris between performances on the first leg of our European tour with the Jardin des Voix and Les Arts Florissants.

How long are you working on contract?
We premiered this production of Charpentier’s Les Arts florissants and La Descente d’Orphée aux enfers this summer at William Christie’s festival in Thiré and performances are scheduled, for now, through September 2026. So far, the tour has taken us to Lucerne, Luxembourg, València, Paris and Oviedo, and we’ll conclude this first series at the Opéra Royal de Versailles. Next year, we’ll bring the production to Massy, Madrid, Lyon, as well as to Canada, the United States, the Netherlands and Italy.

What’s the opera house like?
One of the most interesting challenges of this project is performing in such a variety of venues. The premiere took place on a floating stage at dusk on the Miroir d’Eau, a reflecting pool, in Thiré – which was thrilling. We’ve sung in large halls accommodating around 1,500 people, and we’ll soon perform in more intimate spaces like the Opéra Royal de Versailles, where the theatre seats fewer than 700. At this point, we know the music and staging well enough to adapt quickly to each space and play with the “instrument” that is the hall itself.

Where is the most peaceful place in the city?
The tour schedule is intense – we often spend no more than 48 hours, travel included, in each city. I find peace when I’m back in Paris. Living at the foot of Montmartre, I love strolling along avenue Caulaincourt and up avenue Junot to the Sacré-Cœur late in the evening, when the streets are empty. It’s wonderfully quiet and allows for moments of meditation.

Best coffee or tea?
The 18th arrondissement is full of great coffee shops. My favourite is Two Doors Coffee, on rue Francœur.

Coolest bar or restaurant you’ve been to?
In València, we spent a fantastic evening at La Fábrica de Hielo, which has great music, tapas, and drinks – and sits right across from the Mediterranean. It ended with a glorious midnight dip in the sea before heading back to the hotel.

An activity you have done that is unique to the area?
Having finished my studies in Paris nearly a decade ago and spending about half my time here ever since, I love sharing the city with friends and colleagues discovering it for the first time. My current go-to is bringing them to Bouillon Chartier, a beloved brasserie opened in 1896 that captures the city’s old-world spirit – bustling, elegant and remarkably affordable.

 

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Is there something unexpected that happens locally that you discovered?
Perhaps not unexpected but certainly rare and scarcely seen by most – a few days ago I visited the Cimetière du Calvaire, Paris’s oldest and smallest cemetery, and coincidentally the highest point in the city, which is open to the public only on All Saints’ Day. After walking past its gate for many years, it was fascinating to finally discover this hidden gem.

How did you find accommodation?
On tour, our lodgings are taken care of by the company and we usually stay in hotels near the theatre or concert hall. Between performances, I’m lucky to stay in my apartment in Paris, which I’ve been renting from a close friend for a couple of years.

What’s the most important thing you think of when it comes to finding accommodation as a singer?
Being close enough to the venue to avoid transport issues is essential. Depending on the length of the engagement, I also value having a quiet space where I can cook, rest and ideally practice without worrying about disturbing the neighbours.

Have you had a chance to explore some galleries or museums?
Absolutely. I love visiting museums at night – many in Paris stay open until about 10:00 once a week, offering a completely different atmosphere. There are fewer visitors, and you can wander freely. Last week, I discovered a wonderful exhibition at the Musée d’Orsay on photographer Gabrielle Hébert – once known simply as the wife of painter Ernest Hébert – who turned a casual hobby into a quietly radical art form, transforming her time at Rome’s Villa Medici into a luminous chronicle of love, art and everyday life at the turn of the century.

Is there anything else you’d recommend?
Three things come to mind. On a sunny day, visit the Sainte-Chapelle on the Île de la Cité – its grandeur and radiant stained glass are truly transformative; I would even go so far as to say that it is life-changing. On a rainy day, for a similarly profound experience, step into the Musée de l’Orangerie – often described as the “Sistine Chapel of Impressionism” – and lose yourself in Monet’s Nymphéas. And on any day, I’d recommend stopping by a good wine cellar, like L’Étiquette on the Île Saint-Louis.