_{OPERA PLACES} Emma Fekete takes us to Paris, France

City where you’re working?
Paris, France, which still feels surreal to say out loud.

How long are you working on contract?
Our rehearsals for Robinson Crusoé began in late October, and performances run from December 3rd to 14th.

What’s the opera house like?
The Théâtre des Champs-Élysées is a jewel box of Art Déco elegance, right on Rue Montaigne, which means biking past sparkling luxury shop windows on my way to rehearsal. Being here in December is extra special, because the whole street is lit up for the holidays. The top floor of the TCÉ has an incredible view of the Eiffel tower, and the staff is always so welcoming, kind and generous.

Most peaceful place in the city?
The apartment where I’m staying, just north of Paris, is my little sanctuary. It’s outside the usual hustle, with two open-concept floors overlooking a quiet park. I’ve enjoyed my mornings off, looking out the window during my practice sessions.

Best coffee or tea?
While in Paris, I discovered soba-cha (そば茶), roasted buckwheat tea from Japan, which has a nutty, toasty flavour that is perfect for Paris in winter. I pick it up from a lovely organic grocery shop around the corner, L’épicerie Renée.

Coolest bar or restaurant you’ve been to?
Marché des Enfants Rouges in Le Marais is my current obsession. It dates back to 1615 and is a treasure trove of street food. My boyfriend and I shared a Moroccan lamb tajine there, followed by mint tea. Next time, I’d love to try the Caribbean stand!

An activity unique to the area?
Jogging along La Seine, with the Eiffel Tower, the Champs-Élysées, and the Louvre casually part of the scenery. I giggle through entire runs because I simply cannot believe this is my current “local route.”

Something unexpected that happens locally?
I discovered that Parisians will unapologetically enjoy a glass of wine outdoors even when it’s 4°C. Terraces everywhere stay full, heaters or not. There’s a kind of collective commitment to the terrace lifestyle that I truly love.

How did you find accommodation?
Through Instagram, of all things! I posted a story about needing a place to stay, a colleague shared it, and a friend of hers happened to be renting out a room. I love going through personal networks when I can: it feels more human than scrolling through endless corporate listings.

Most important thing when finding accommodation as a singer?
Location, price and a functional kitchen. This time, since I’m here for two months, I didn’t want to come home to an empty apartment every night. I’m staying with a wonderful Parisian couple: we share meals (including a very memorable raclette night!), wander to local markets together and have movie evenings together. It feels like a little adopted family.

Have you explored some galleries or museums?
Rehearsals have been wonderfully intense, so I’ve mostly rested on my days off. But my family is flying in once performances begin, and I’m saving a visit to the Musée d’Orsay for when they arrive. I can’t wait to experience it with them.

Anything else you’d recommend?
An unstructured afternoon in Montmartre is always my favourite Paris experience: the artists painting in the square, the delicious pâtisseries and the views of the city. I love wandering past the spots from the Amélie Poulain movie (Le Café des Deux Moulins, Le Cinéma Studio 28 and the famous épicerie Collignon) and pretending that I’ve stepped into her shoes for the day.